How to make a Funbox & single Ledge
This ledge is intended as an add-on to this funbox. There are many ways of making these, and this is just one of those ways.
As with all structures here on DIYskate, you can build this ledge any size you want. However, for the material list to be accurate, you will need to follow the plans as listed below.
Where to get your Supplies
The wood and hardware can be found at most home improvement stores. Sometimes you can find the steel there as well, I know my local Home Depot carries the coping and threshold material.
If not, check the phone book. Look up Steel, Steel Yards, Steel Fabricators, Scrap Steel & anything else with Steel in the title.
If this ramp is going to stay outside, it needs to be protected from the elements. A good place to start is with pressure treated lumber, paint and a tarp. You may want to invest in a composite material for the surface too. Such as Skate Lite or Ramp Armor.
Be extra careful when working with treated lumber though, the chemicals used to treat the wood contain a poisonous pesticide.
Build the funbox
Start by constucting the standard funbox along with it's ledge. Do not attach any coping yet and you should have a structure that looks like the one below.
Gathering your Materials
Now for the down sloping portion of the ledge. Gather your materials, begin with the 2×4's. Cut twelve pieces at 9" in length. Cut six more pieces at 11 1/2", these will determine the height of the ledge. Next, take two 2×4's and cut them down to 5'-8 in length, for the bottom. Last cut two more 2×4's at 5'-10 for the top. Below is a cut list referencing this and the other items that you will need and their size.
|Material Cut List|
Frame the Bottom
Place three 9" long 2×4's between two 5'-8 long 2×4's as shown above. The one in the middle is centered. Pre-drill the screw locations near the ends with a 1/16" drill bit to keep them from splitting.
Framing the Top
Now frame the top of the ledge as shown below. Using two of the 5'-10 long 2×4's for the sides and nine of the 9" long pieces placed every 8 1/2" on center.
The 5'-10 long 2×4's will extend about 2" past the last 9" long 2×4. This keeps you from having to build the ledge at an angle and makes it easier for me to explain to you how to build it.
Placing the Sides
Take the botom that you made earlier and attach the six 11 1/2" long pieces to the bottom of the box as shown above. Put four screws in each piece, two through each side.
Attaching the Top
Place the top on the newly attached sides. This is much easier if you flip it upside down or lay the assembly on it's side. Put four screws in each, just like the bottom.
Place the Framed Ledge
Take the framed ledge and place it on the kicker, pushed tight against the top ledge. Screw it into place.
You may notice how the 2×4's do not fit completely flush against the ledge. This is ok. The 3/4" plywood will cover the gaps. You could cut angled 2×4's from the start, but this way will work just fine.
Cutting the Plywood
Cut the plywood top and side pieces as shown in the illustration below. Since the ledge is on a slope (the kicker), one piece will have to be cut at an angle and the other will be beveled as shown.
It may help if you rough cut the plywood pieces, ie; cut to size without the bevel and angled portion cut out. Then place them on the framed ledge and mark the bevel and angled cut with a pencil.
Attaching the plywood
Take the plywood pieces you cut and attach them to the ledge. Starting with the top and then the side.
Bending the coping
For this structure, you will want to bend the coping at 6'-0 from one end and 5'-11 from the other. This will allow the angle iron to be one continuous piece, making grinds as smooth as possible.
To do this, make two 15 degree cuts on one side of the angle iron as shown above. Once cut, you can easily bend it together by hand. Optional: Weld the seam together (but not necessary).
Attaching the coping
Place the angle iron on the ledges. Drill a 3/16" hole on each end on both sides where shown. The top and bottom dimensions are offset so the screws won't hit each other. Drill about 12 holes total.
After the holes are drilled, countersink each by using the 3/8" drill bit to drill down just enough so the screw heads are flush with the coping. This will keep your trucks and board from hitting them.
And there you have it. A funbox with a ledge that follows the slope of the funbox. These are a staple at most parks and one of my favorites to skate as the trick possibilities are endless.
As with the last funbox, if you can afford it and have the room, make the funbox at least six feet wide if not eight. With the funbox being only 4' wide, you may find it hard to set up for the ledge. Especially with tricks that require you to approach it at an angle.
Good luck, and have fun!