Jersey Barriers !!
I have to be excited about these things. Besides the fact that they are a quick build, they are just plain fun. I know I say that about a lot of ramps here on DIYskate, but these seriously are fun.
This jersey barrier is 2'-8 tall by 8' wide. It's based on an actual concrete jersey barrier's dimensions.
As with all structures here on DIYskate, you can build this jersey barrier any size you want. But for the material list to be accurate you will need to follow the plans as listed below.
Where to get your Supplies
The wood and hardware can be found at most home improvement stores. Sometimes you can find the steel there as well, I know my local Home Depot carries the coping and threshold material.
If not, check the phone book. Look up Steel, Steel Yards, Steel Fabricators, Scrap Steel & anything else with Steel in the title.
If this ramp is going to stay outside, it needs to be protected from the elements. A good place to start is with pressure treated lumber, paint and a tarp. You may want to invest in a composite material for the surface too. Such as Skate Lite or Ramp Armor.
Be extra careful when working with treated lumber though, the chemicals used to treat the wood contain a poisonous pesticide.
Gather all your materials. Start with the 2×4's. Cut 7 pieces at 7'-10 1/2 in length. Set them aside. Below is a cut list referencing what else you will need and it's size.
|Material Cut List|
The plywood layout diagram above shows you where to cut the sides and their measurements.
Making the 2×4 Compass
Using an 2×4 that is 5'-0 or longer, drill a hole that's the diameter of a pencil about 2" in from the end.
Then measure from the hole you just drilled, out the distance of the transition radius. In this case, 4'-0. Place a screw there but don't go all the way through the 2×4 yet.
Marking the Plywood
With the 2×4 you just made, screw the screw into the plywood where shown below.
Now guide your pencil with the 2×4 compass to clearly draw the transition radius on the 3/4" ply.
Once done, take one of your 3/8" sheets and place it on the left side as shown. Use this piece of ply to attach your 2×4 compass to and draw out the other side of the transition the same way as you did the right side using the dimensions provided above.
Cut the transition
Carefully cut the transition using the lines you just drew. Once cut, you can use this transition as your template to trace onto the plywood and cut out the other side.
Framing the Sides
Frame the jersey barrier using three of the 7'-10 1/2 long 2×4's for the top and bottom as shown above.
Framing the center
Take the remaining four 2×4's and frame the riding surface portion by placing the 2×4's at 9" on center as shown.
Also place the 2×6 below the top 2×4 as seen in the illustration. It should work out to 9" down from the top, but if it's not exact, don't sweat it. Just make the 2×6 flush with both sides (or close) and attach it to the sides.
Also, a 2×6's is not 2" by 6". It is actually only 2" by 5 1/2". Kind of like a 2×4 being only 2" by 3 1/2". Just a reminder so you don't wonder why it's not fitting right.
Covering the ramp
Take both of the 2'-11 wide 3/8" plywood sheets and attach them to each side of the barrier. Using 1 5/8" screws, start at the top and place the screws about a foot apart working your way down the jersey barrier. Make sure you hit the studs when your attaching them. Use a chalkline or 2×4 to mark it.
Once complete, take the 2'-10 wide 3/8" plywood sheets and attach them to each side just as you did the previous layer. You will want the bottom of the 3/8" ply to be flush with the ground. The plywood is 1" shorter than the first to allow the angle iron to fit on the ramp.
Attaching the Angle Iron
With the 3/8" ply screwed down, take two, 2×2×3/16" angle iron at 8' long and attach them to the ramp.
The 3/8" ply will stick out a little bit more than the angle iron unless you place a piece of 1/4" plywood behind the angle iron to build it up. This is completely up to you.
You can also add a piece of 1/4" plywood between the two angle iron pieces to make it flush all the way across, but again, this is optional.
As with all steel that you attach to a ramp, drill a 3/16" hole and countersink to allow the screw head to be flush with the ramp. You will need 3 screws in each leg of each angle iron. Twelve total or six per angle iron, similar to the grind ledge.
And that is all there is to it. You can paint it and add a couple and hand hold holes on each end, but other than that, you are finished.
This jersey barrier can be made steeper or more mellow by adjusting where you draw the transition or changing the transition radius altogether.
Also, add a kicker for an instant grind ledge / flat rail.